Lisbon Travel Guide: What To See in the Portuguese Capital
A
couple weeks ago, an unexpected trip happened, that took my to Lisbon
for the first time. You may not know this, but I am from Portuguese
descent. My mother was born of Portuguese parents, and my dad
emigrated from Portugal when he was eighteen. I have thus spent many
summers, when I was younger, in our little village high in the
mountains, but I never really got the chance to see the capital.
Now
that I've finally seen it, let me share with you some of the
highlights of that short stay, starting with a walk to the heights of
Lisbon...
Castelo São Jorge: the best views in town
Lisbon
is a city built on hills and heights. There are numerous miradouros
around, high points that give you multiple vistas on the typical
orange roofs and colourful buildings. The best view, however, I found
at Castelo São Jorge, the medieval castle that stands high above
Lisbon. The climb up there involves a lot of stairs, and rather
unusual streets.
Meeting
the locals, too.
Go
to the castle in the morning, ideally getting there before 10am.
You'll avoid the queues that gather around noon, and have all the
time in the world to explore. Once you arrive at the castle, you'll
arrive to a big open space, greeted by a view over the whole city.
Once
you've admired the view, you can learn about the history of the
castle. The medieval fortress was built on top of the hill to have a
good overview of the whole city and the river. In the museum, you'll
find artifacts dating back to the Roman times, and around the
fortress itself you'll have plenty of space to explore its courts,
statues, and towers. And again, walk around the high defensive walls
to see the city from above, in every single perspective you could
imagine.
The
Castelo São Jorge is a must-see if you've got a few days in Lisbon.
You see if from below when you wander around town, and the views from
above are truly worth climbing up all these stairs.
Go to Belem and try the original Pastel de Nata
Belem
is a famous area or district of Lisbon, where you'll find beautiful
landmarks and one of the most praised Portuguese treats: the pasteis
de nata. They are little custard tarts, traditionally eaten with
sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on it. The pasteis were created in
Belem, and that's where you'll find the house that makes the best
pasteis de nata, according to pretty much everybody.
To go there and get some of the precious little pastries,
you'll have to be patient. Queues there are a bit mad, and you'll
feel bad for the people who work there as if they were in a factory,
but eventually you'll get your hands on the pasteis. I'd suggest
buying a little box of four.
Yes,
we went to Starbucks to eat our pastries. Some habits are just too difficult to give up on.
Always
try to eat the pasteis straight away, while they're still warm and
soft. The custard inside was really good, not too sweet contrary to
what I feared. The perfect mid-afternoon treat when you've been
walking around under the sun and need a sugar kick.
In
Belem, walk near the river to admire the boats in the harbour, and
you'll get to approach two emblematic monuments of Lisbon.
This
is the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, literally the Monument of the
Discoveries. Created in the 1940s but set up in Belem in 1960, it is
tall, impressive white monument that celebrates the brightest spirits
of Portugal in the 15th and 16th centuries. At the time, Portugal a
country of avid explorers, with navigators who discovered territories
as far as America and India. There are statues on both sides, and
they look as if they were going to come to life, lift their swords
and march on.
Not
too far from there, another monument stands tall on the river bank:
the Torre de Belem. A medieval tower built in the 16th century to
mark the entry to the harbour, and to protect the town from the
river. It is a UNESCO classified site, and an eerie location to take
photographs of. The light changes depending on the time of day, and
gives you a different perspective on the tower.
You
can visit the tower, but again be prepared for crowds, especially in
the summer. If they're one thing I learned about Lisbon, it is that
it's really popular destination at the moment. And that's for a
reason, after all!
There's
more to see in Belem, but that is coming right up in the next part of
this post...
Lisbon, between old and new
During
my trip, I found that there are two sides to Lisbon. The first one
you see is the traditional side, with the crumbly buildings, the
walls covered in old azulejos, the tiny restaurants from which you
can smell grilled fish and sea produce, the churches and paved roads.
Visit the Alfama district, behind the Castelo São Jorge, to find the
narrowest streets, lively and loud, where locals and travellers alike
meet and eat in the smallest restaurants, where, if you're lucky,
you'll find fado singers in the evening.
Lisbon
is also full of beautiful buildings that show its glorious past.
Among them, make sure to visit the Jeronimos Monastery, with its
bright cloisters and intricate decors...
If
like me you enjoy the typical porcelain tiles that, all over
Portugal, cover the buildings, head to the National Museum of
Azulejos. It is housed in a former convent, where you can still see a
beautiful church, covered from the floor to the ceiling in gold and
tiles.
You
learn about the history of the azulejo, with some examples of
different styles and designs, from as early as medieval times to
contemporary interpretations of the art.
This
museum is a real feast for the eyes, and when we went there it was
almost empty. The perfect place to escape the crowds, and that you
wouldn't find anywhere else in the world.
Speaking
of, the National Museum of Coaches in Belem, is also one of a kind.
Makes you want to ditch the Ferrari for something more... theatrical.
(Sadly,
I don't own a Ferrari. I don't even know how to drive, so I guess
it's not a big loss on my part.)
In
the museum, you'll find carriages from the eighteenth century to the
twentieth century. Royal carriages used by Portuguese princesses,
coaches given as presents from other countries, fire engines,
children's cabriolets... Some of these look like they're straight out
of a BBC period drama. I had never seen such an extensive collection of carriages, it is quite unique so don't miss it if you're in Lisbon.
But
Lisbon is not a city stuck in its past. It is resolutely modern, where young people (and older folks too) get together for
drinks and to dance the night away, where the walls covered in tiles
sit right next to walls covered in street art.
The
place that impressed me the most in Lisbon was the Parque das Naçoes.
It is an area built for the Expo 98, an exhibition that took place in
1998 and revolved around the ocean and its key role in the future of
humanity. Since then, the place has expanded and is now a district
where you'll find skyscrapers, a big shopping centre, an oceanarium,
gardens, and so on.
Parque
das Naçoes is a wide area, so I'd suggest to take a whole afternoon
to explore it. You could always go shopping afterwards, and have
dinner in one of the restaurants facing the cable car and the river.
By the way, if you're fine with heights, I highly recommend the cable
car. It gives you the nicest view of the whole area, and takes you
from one part of the Parque to the other.
I
feel like no matter what you're looking for, you'll find it in
Lisbon. The city has developed and grown, and with it the
possibilities of entertainment and leisure - you won't get bored
there!
If
there was one piece of advice I would give, it is to avoid visiting
in the summer. Seems obvious, but I never thought Lisbon was such a
popular destination and that it would be so crowded. But that's for a
reason - it's an awesome city for a little holiday break!
YOU SHOULD ALSO READ: A GUIDE TO VISIT THE PALACES OF SINTRA, PORTUGAL
YOU SHOULD ALSO READ: A GUIDE TO VISIT THE PALACES OF SINTRA, PORTUGAL
Have you ever been to Lisbon? Would you consider visiting?
Lots of love,
Julia x
Lots of love,
Julia x
